MRRC has really heated things up for the slot car enthusiasts lately and as I write this review it occurred to me just how fortunate

Tuesday March 24, 2009

MRRC has really heated things up for the slot car enthusiasts lately and as I write this review it occurred to me just how fortunate we are. Look at the amount of choices we have when it comes to new car selections alone. These releases are special as they seem to bring together memories of the past along with the modern advancements of today's hobby.

This is also one of these times where we get to stray from the normal product review format. Not only are we looking at the models in their stock form, but we have the chance to change them to suit our own personal driving styles.

Let us start with one of the biggest surprises from MRRC this year: The Ford GT40 MK IV. This model has already been a huge success in the last couple months with many dealers selling out 2 or 3 times already. We have also heard from our fellow enthusiasts in our forums on how much they enjoy the model. I originally passed on this model and chose the Porsche 910 with plans later on to add this Ford.

Just seeing the model "in the flesh" the first time was very pleasing. They really have done a great job recreating this classic in 1/32nd scale. Although the less than colorful livery will not appeal to all enthusiasts, it still is attractive to me.

There is plenty of small details here as well. Visible engine in the rear is nicely done along with rivet details throughout the model. It is the little things like this that draw me in closer and I appreciate the effort they have made.

Interior detail is more than enough for me and should satisfy most of you as well. There is not much you can really see of course but our driver is present firmly gripping the steering wheel and you can just make out the fire bottle next to him. For a half-tray style interior it plays the part well.

Wheels and tires really look good upon initial inspection. The blue line on the tires along with the Goodyear markings are very crisp and for me adds so much to the scale appeal. They also appear very round and true which is the important thing and the medium to soft compound of the tires should give us decent grip.

The Competition

What's this? Perhaps one of the most recognizable classic race cars of all time: The Chaparral 2F! This model sort of snuck up on me as the MK IV and 910 seemed to be getting most of the attention. Shame on me because this model is just as well done as the others and deserves equal billing.

MRRC has had offerings of this model before but believe it or not this is my first time with one up close. Back in 2006 Rich McMahon reviewed the 2 car limited edition set but I just never got around to getting them.

Again, MRRC has done a fine job capturing this legend in our scale. Over the years I have heard many positive comments about the overall look of this car and can only echo these here. Not everyone likes this version of the Chaparral as the wing can be a fragile part, but I like it regardless. And there is a bonus here: It comes with an extra wing and supports taped to the bottom of the case.

So if you do break the original, you at least get one more to replace it and I think this is a great offering from MRRC.

The wheels and tires on our "Chappy" seem to be just as well done as the Ford. The Firestone markings are equally opaque and just adds to the realism.

Head 2 Head Part One

What makes these two models such a good match up is that they have the identical chassis as well as the same size wheels and tires. The Ford has a slightly longer wheelbase so we will see how that comes into play during testing. In truth this Sebring chassis is what makes most all the classics MRRC makes very fun to run together.

FORD

CHAPARRAL

And although I was not much of a fan of this chassis design when I first tested it a few years ago, some changes to it have me slowly becoming a fan of it. First and foremost there has been a gear change that has made these models much smoother than earlier versions using the same chassis.

Our first player is the MK IV and the first thing I noticed on the first few laps was the sound of the gears, or rather lack of it. This car was the smoothest and most quiet models out of the box using this chassis I have tested. So far I was very happy. The second thing you will notice is the amount of magnetic downforce these models have.

I easily clocked 3.0 second averages on our Artin test track. This model is just like the Porsche and simply screams around the layout at light speed. With this amount of magnet the car brakes very crisp but with the high rpm motor you still get powerful acceleration.

Next up is the Chaparral. Again, a smile came to my face as this car was nearly as smooth and quiet as the MK IV. You might think the wing would cause this model to have a easier tendency to tip over but with this amount of magnet it really does not. The MK IV was slightly faster as I could only manage a 3.1 average, but look how close that is. Given my home racing level of driving skill tells me this is more of a driver difference than in mechanical.

Although the car is too stuck down for my taste I can always remove one of the magnets for a lighter feel. In this sense I am glad they included both magnets. It is much easier and less expensive to take away from than it is to add. In other words, if you like this style of racing it is well equipped out of the box. If you are not, remove one or both magnets. It does not cost you anything but time.

I am trying a new format in our review process with these models. I have had feedback from some of our readers that when testing a new model I should give a more detailed opinion from out of the box operation. I think they are correct. A good many of us out there in this hobby are mostly "plug and play" racers. We purchase a new model and we expect to take it out of the case and have it run fairly well with no real issues.

With that said I feel most magnet racers and speed demons should be pleased. I think both cars are better suited for a larger track to allow the models more room to "air things out" but this is just my personal preference. The gears do need some break-in time to smooth out but as it stands both performed very well out of the box like they should.

I think most of you should be happy if you choose to add these to your stable.

Closer Look - Under The Hoods

3 screws mount the bodies to the chassis are removed easily. Now you can see the dual magnets and if you want to, now is the time to remove them. Since we race on a wood track using copper tape leaving them in place just turns the magnets into weight. You still want to exchange them with lead if you want non-magnet action on your plastic track.

One small tip is to apply a light coat of glue to these magnets if you decide to keep them installed. Mine had some free-play in the mounts and rattle at times under power. Using some glue or even tape will keep them mounted firmly on the chassis and reduce some noise.

You also see the slim-line motor in the inline configuration. It has a 10 tooth pinion that turns the 27 tooth crown gear.

NOTE: These gears are in an offset configuration that many call a hypoid set up. However, these gears are different than prior versions. They do NOT have a beveled crown gear like those found in the earlier released Chaparral. They also seem to have a better mesh out of the box. Comparing these to early versions (beveled teeth and gray in color) is like night and day.

The axle bushings will need a little attention. They spin quite freely in the chassis under power. Not a huge issue as many of our cars have this same problem. Easily remedied however with just a light drop of your favorite adhesive on the tops of each bushing. I use hot glue as it holds them in place, yet allows for removal of the axle assembly without damaging it or the chassis.

PERFORM THIS FOR BOTH MODELS

The only other small complaint I have is the guide. I wish that it was deeper. I realize guides such as this make the car compatible with the older Scalextric track system, but I think it is time to move on and design a deeper guide for today's modern track systems. Sort of along the lines of giving us 2 magnets. For those that need to, you can simply trim the guide down thus making it easier to take away from than to add. In fairness the guide does work decently in stock form.

Simple Tuning

MRRC has a large line of motors that will allow you to tune your model to your driving style and track conditions. I was very happy to see that they sent us some of the SC-23 10,000 RPM @ 12 volt motors they currently offer. For our tracks and driving styles we really enjoy reducing the RPMs and making these cars run like we feel they should. Like classics.

The swap was about as easy as it gets. Yes, you will need a soldering iron for the lead wires but that is expected. The motors have a red mark on them to let you know what wire goes where. I was excited about these motors as although it might offend some racers, we look at them as an UPGRADE. Some enthusiasts think that the more RPMs the better. We do not. Many times when people visit here do they see their "hopped up" machine get lapped by a car with a lower RPM motor due to the control and smoothness they offer.

NOTE: The shaft on this new motor is not splined like the original. The pinion still fits snugly though and I did not see a reason to glue it. You could do so of course if you feel it needs it.

On our smaller 4 x 16 foot layouts a higher RPM motor has little to no value. It is harder to control in the corners and the speed increase means nothing on our shorter straights. What little you gain in the short straight you usually lose in the corners. Plus, slowing things down and running non-magnet also allows us to enjoy the models in another aspect: We can see them. Watching the cars power slide around the curves and giving us more time to correct over-driving is really something hard to describe in print.

Wheels and tires will need some sanding to get them just right. This is no difficult task and most all veteran enthusiasts have a favorite method to accomplish it. I removed the tires and cleaned up any flash molding on the wheels, then re-installed the tires and sanded them until they were making the best contact my eyes could see.

Finally one last little modification. I noticed the front axle has a fair amount of vertical free-play. All this does is introduce excess body roll to the model and reducing it really helps smooth the car out in the corners and also helps reduce tipping. I used some Evergreen styrene .100" rod cut at 1/4 inch.

Why so long? To put it bluntly it is easier for my fingers to work with. I slid the rod under the axle to the point where it (the axle) was just resting on it. Too far and the rod will follow the upward curve of the chassis and bind up the axle. I sealed them in place with a seam of hot glue.

ALL MODIFICATIONS COMPLETED

Non Magnet Wood Track Racing
Routed MDF - Flat Latex Surface - Copper Tape Conductivity
Pyramid 26KX Power Supply @12 Volts - PARMA 25 OHM Controllers

Fans of classic racing action using lower RPM motors will be in for a treat. My first few laps told me these models are much improved for our road course. Very smooth operation in the corners and not as punch as before. Acceleration is toned down of course but still has plenty of power, except now you have more control over it.

I posted lap times in the 5.4 second range for the Chappy and a 5.2 for the Ford. Again, this slight difference I attribute to myself. These times are about average for many different classic models we have tuned to similar specifications. The only thing most wood track owner will want is to swap out the tires to their favorite brand. This is no knock on MRRC, but although the tires work well for what surface they were designed for our flat latex finish is not one of them. Granted, when they are clean they work well, but the slightest amount of dust will have you slipping around more than you would like.

Bottom Line

I must admit both of these models surprised me. I did not expect them to run this well out of the box and the added bonus of the new motors just made them instant favorites here. Some advanced enthusiasts most likely will agree that having these great classics available is a great addition to our hobby. Having options such as the motors to customize them makes them even better. The pricing is not bad either. I checked with our sponsors and found these to be right around $47.00. That is a price I can live with.

If you are just starting in our hobby and like older race cars like these, you should really think about grabbing at least one. We will be adding more here as our fondness for the classics ranks near the top. Thanks MRRC for continuing to improve upon this line of cars. I for one appreciate it.

- Harry

As always feel free to contact me about this article or just the hobby in general at harry@homeracingworld.com, or better yet drop into our Message Forum and share your thoughts with other enthusiasts!

Thank You MRRC For Sponsoring This Review!

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