Resurfacing the Show-Me Speedway
Part 1
As in real racing circuits across the land, some look at what they have and feel its time to upgrade and renovate. This is the case here as well, so after much thought, it was time to resurface the dungeon racing empire we had created. This was not an easy decision, but my goals in creating a fine scale layout needed a new track to get it right, and that track was Carrera. First, I still feel Scalextric track is the best track you can buy as whole. It is flexible, durable, comes with many specialty pieces and accessories. However, one thing I wanted to do is create a fine scale layout that included an overpass, plus take advantage of the smoother surface, deeper slot and track width. Why the big deal about an overpass? Well, elevating track gives a layout depth and accents a scale appearance, plus landscaping and detailing one brings a layout to life. Some people argue to keep it flat, I agree with Scalextric, Ninco, and SCX that you should. But not so the case with Carrera, it’s stiffer track, allows the creation of and overpass and elevated track easier and smoother than flexible track, with less warping and cleaner connections.
First purchase however was the layout design software, Tracker 2000. I highly recommend this product, it is easy to use, and saves you time and money. After I did, designing the track was the hardest part. Like most people, you know WHAT you want; it’s HOW to get it. I wanted a quicker, less twisty track, but still wanted a challenging course. Moreover, don’t forget, I wanted an overpass. With Carrera’s track being wider, and the fact that the turn borders alone are wider than HO scale slot track (actually putting 2 turn borders together is exactly the same width as a piece of track, so its almost like making a 4 lane layout). Like most folks we had limited space to work with, so in the end I chose the simple "C-shape oval" with total length at 59 ½ feet. We like it a lot, and it provides a challenging, satisfying course along with smooth, sheer speed.
Next decision was the surface to mount the track. With my first track, I simply painted the tables with household paint. It turned out great and was very economical, but I wondered if I could improve on this as well. The answer was found during a trip to Lowe’s Home Center, where we discovered a fantastic carpet. Yes carpet and no, there is not a carpet fiber problem here as the one we chose has a very tight weave. Plus the carpet is a lot easier on the paint jobs of some of your highly detailed cars when the "off" chance one might come off the track, and provides a little more cushion than painted wood. We found a color and weave that simulated real "grass" almost perfectly at 1/32nd scale. And the visual appearance it gives the layout is well worth the extra money you spend.
Also we had a backdrop issue to deal with. The last attempt was not to my liking. I wanted a smooth, continuous backdrop. So we researched some companies that made backdrops, but to be honest here, they just were too expensive. So what do we do? Well believe it or not we chose roofing tarpaper. We bought a huge roll of it for only $20.00, pretty economical compared to previous options. It was easy and light to cut and mount. It was a breeze to paint as well. In addition, it provided an extra surprise, the paper after being painted crinkled a bit here and there, creating a realistic effect that we like very much. So much in fact, that first intention of painting "clouds" is now a very low priority. Some trimming in the corners was needed, but will be hidden by scenery.
Power control was another issue. When building a scale layout, the last thing you want is a power base box laying in it. This has always been an issue with me. Why do your best to create a scale, realistic layout, then, leave a power base with wires sticking out of it on the table? Removal of this box from the Carrera connection straight immediately voids your warranty, but it had to be done. I will cover this later in detail in a separate article for you, as this conversion will need more than I have here to explain in detail. We also replaced the standard thumb-plunger type controllers for Parma 60ohm controllers. Again some question this decision, but if your not running super-heavy magnets or extreme motors, these work just fine and give great control. Plus this keeps the ohm rating close to the original controllers found in many brands of track for the purpose of product reviews. Conversion was very simple, just cut the end of your controller off about 6 inches from the bottom, and match the wires from the Parma controller as shown. This setup has been confirmed by Parma. For about 20 bucks per controller, it’s almost a no-brainer for this upgrade.
It was time for test-laying some track. A lot of enthusiasts discuss the tabs that lock the Carrera system as being very fragile and prone to breaking easily. They are less durable, and not made to be constantly taken apart, but so far all is intact and work fine. Larger sections at a time were put together; this made it a lot easier installing the track tabs and layout construction. Once in place with the tabs, the connections are almost seamless and provides you with a nice racing surface. All in all, it took about an hour to connect the entire track and get it in place on the tables.
Building a scale layout is a lot of fun, and one of the most satisfying parts of this hobby. With your new track purchase, try taking it to the next level, it adds so much to your racing environment.
Feel free to email me at
wiseone@yhti.net to discuss this article or just the hobby in general.Harry Wise
If you are setting up a permanent layout, one thing you will want to have is
a good lap counting system. Lap counters have been in the limelight lately, so
it just shows you how important a good system is to the enthusiast. 3 years ago,
I made the initial investment in a DS-011 2-lane system, and have enjoyed it
since.
Carrera has released a great 2-lane lap counter, but since I already had this
system and liked it, it was going to be used here as well. There other
inexpensive lap counters out there, but at the time then, this was the best
choice for me. I wanted a scale layout, one that had the look and feel of a real
track, and also wanted a system that was expandable to a possible 4-lane setup.
What I did not want was a mechanical counter or one that was ran by a computer.
Why not one by a computer? Well simply put, I did not have a spare computer!
After asking a few questions, and looking at a few systems, I chose the DS
system.
All that was needed to change was the light bridge for Carrera track. With these
bridges, the light emitting diodes must make contact with each other and
drilling a hole in the track groove was needed. This is very easy to do, just
take your time and you will be done in only a few minutes. I made the holes
twice as long as needed in case during a race, the bridge would shift, but this
is not needed. It is a very snug fit, so this was not necessary. I am happy with
this system and feel the initial investment is worth the years of racing it
provides.
One thing you might notice about my designs is that I don’t adhere to some of
the age-old standards that some follow. I use and incorporate what works for me.
Simple, inexpensive methods will give you the same amount of reliability as the
sometimes “Golden Rule” route. You can achieve a highly detailed, very reliable
scale-racing track without throwing money away. The DS system is not cheap by
any means, but this was an area I wanted the best I could afford. In other
areas, like power, I chose a inexpensive set up and it works flawlessly.
When it comes to power for your track, this is another area where a lot of slot
racers differ in their selection. I chose a simple route for mine. The Carrera
power supplies are adequate, but low on amperage, they only provide 350mA and I
wanted more for stronger magnet cars and high performance motors. Ninco makes
some great power supplies, plenty of milliamps (800) and voltage for running any
home slot car, at least the ones I run. So, I picked up 2 of these, one for each
lane, and simply spliced these onto the original Carrera plug. Clean power and
plenty of it, very easy to do, and inexpensive.
Another thing you will want to do is run power taps halfway through your course.
My course is not that long; so only one power tap was needed. Directly across
from the original power supply, I soldered the power tap wires from underneath
the track. I used wire cut from a standard household extension cord. Some will
say this is not enough, but it is for my use. I don’t run any commercial cars,
only home set cars, and most of those are stock. So using this wire is a great
choice and again, easy on your pocketbook. With this, you eliminate any power
loss and achieve good clean power throughout the track. This does not take a lot
of time or effort, and is well worth the time.
After months of testing this layout, there are no problems or glitches. I have
tried every type of car setup I run for extended periods of time. I am very
happy with it, and even if I had the chance to do it all over again, I would do
it the same way. We have great racing down here in the basement, and between
racing, we are detailing it little by little. This is as fun as racing for us,
and we just keep adding. In another installment, I’ll add to the tree article
and show you more scenery techniques we have used.
Slot racing is fun, and building your own 1/32nd scale raceway is one of the
most satisfying projects I have ever done. Take your raceway to the next level;
you will enjoy it I assure you.
As always, you can email me at
wiseone@yhti.net about this or just to talk slot cars in general