05/07/2012

1/32 Slot.it Lola White Kit #CA22z2

A lot of hype has preceded this release from Slot.it and as I write this, the model is already in the hands of racers Worldwide. This review will focus on the one thing that seems most important to many: The Chassis.

Yet, there is one thing about this new body that some will find interesting. In the "white kit" releases there are two different options you need to be aware of. There are two white kits: The CA22z1 is just like the painted version, the CA22z2 SHOWN HERE has a modified body so that an inline configuration can used.

The CA22Z2 is the body we show here. You can see the changes when you compare it to the standard painted versions.

My biggest complaint is that there are no instructions for assembly. Not even online. This is not something that impresses me. It does not impress other enthusiasts either given the amount of mail in my inbox. Perhaps this means little or nothing to some of you, but I assure it does to others.

Given my time constraints the car is staying in it's unpainted form. I have not decided what scheme I want to do so only the wing will be installed for testing.

Now onto the chassis. Here is the official word from Slot.it regarding this new model:

The Lola has several new changes over the standard Slot.it GTs, and actually is a completely new product line.

1 - It is an EVO6, Flat-6 ONLY (for the 'standard' painted Lola CA22a and following CA22Z1 White Kite) car. The crown goes under the wheel arch. This is to avoid any ugly 'humps', enlargements, changes to the beautiful, streamlined shape of the modern LMPs, to make room for motors and crowns that just don't fit.

2 - It has a new type of pickup, for the same reason. If you look at other LMP slot cars, the low nose of LMPs is either raised to make room for the pickup, or the pickup itself is mounted nearer to the front wheels (if not between them), affecting performance. This has allowed us to make a car that looks just like the real Lola and runs like an LMP should, in my opinion, and also according to the racers it has been racing so far.

3 - The new AW motor mount places the magnet under the rear shaft. I am not used to racing with magnets but the car is, on our small test track, unbelievably quick out from the box.

4 - Small M2 grub screws can be used to lift the body.

So make no mistake, this car is the definitive performance model from Slot.it.

One of the first things you will notice in this white kit is a note telling you to change the front guide.

There have been issues with the self-centering action along with some rubbing.

I can tell you now, there is no quick change to this guide. Here is an online guide (no English either) showing a method. The new guide is supposed allow the wire to set better and not rub and also improve self-centering which seems to be very important to many racers. A new screw in wood guide should be available in a few months according to Slot.it.

The pod system is impressive and should give you all the float you could ever need. The two screws holding the motor stops any flex as well.

There are 4 points to add grub screws to adjust the body float. That is if you have spare screws. There are two included for the front axle adjustment but NOT for the body. This is very odd to me. In fact it is mistake. Why introduce a new technology/option that you cannot utilize out of the box?

Since I have some extras I installed them. TIP: Do not go to far or you will strip the hole, making it useless.

BOX STOCK TRACK TEST
"HRW SkunkWorks" Plastic Track
All Stock Power & Control

Testing right out of the box this car would hardly move on our NINCO test track. That is because the motor is set at the lowest position and drags the track. It high centers itself on even the slightest uneven sections of the track due to the raised rails on NINCO track. I scraped some of the wrapper off the motor trying to see if I could get a full lap.

The magnet also is very close to dragging. From what I found, it too has to be changed to run effectively on this surface.

You need to take the rear axles and gear assembly apart and remove the two motor retaining screws motor. Then you can get to the motor tab on the other end and rotate (flip) it. This raises the motor up into the chassis. Once this is completed I had to flip the magnet over.

Rotate motor plate to adjust height.

Magnet can be set in two positions.

Add adhesive to make sure magnet stays secure.

When re-installing the wheel, make sure it clears the pinion.

Now the motor is recessed into the chassis and the magnet is flipped it is finally time for another test run.

The car does run very smoothly and is very fast. I do not have a timer on our test track yet but suffice it to say that most speed crazed racers will like this car.

In out of the box form this car is not suited for any track surface other than VERY flat and smooth. Once the changes were made however, it will be fine and you end up with a great running model that should please most of you.