Of course I am not a collector in the purest form and likely neither or you. You might collect a certain series, but you have every intention of taking it out of the case and enjoying it. My personal opinion after testing is that this motor choice is not the right one. This is a nice motor on it's own and it works great in larger cars but it is simply too much motor for this little model. It is very punchy and difficult to have good throttle control in the corners.

One main reason for the poor performance is that this little model is NON-MAGNET and trying to keep it balanced is difficult at best. If you have a track surface like NINCO that has an abrasive surface, I can only say you should prepare to see some clear-coat scuffing.

However, over powered or not it does function out of the box and the rest of the running gear seems to be round and true.

Good. We have a clean platform to build upon and that is all I really care about.

Under The Hood

After removing the 2 screws that hold the body to the chassis we get a better look inside. Other than the motor, everything else is nearly the same as all Porsches before it in this series.

Gearing is the same 9 tooth pinion and 27 tooth crown. Motor tabs are quick disconnect which comes in handy for fast motor changes.

Tuning HRW Style

PLEASE NOTE: This is just my approach. My personal methods that result in a very silky-smooth slot car on our non-magnet wood track surface.

I was thinking it was time to cover what we are doing to make these models run the way we prefer. I say "we" as these tuning tips have been passed down to me over the years by advanced enthusiasts and they are still in use today. When I am finished with this car I can take it to almost all the clubs and friends homes we visit regularly and it will fit right in.

One truth about these NINCO models it that they normally do not need a lot of after-market parts. On very rare occasions you will get a car that needs a wheel or gear, but I have had only one since they were first released. Durability of the stock parts is also excellent as I have models that have been RACED HARD for over 10 years and they are still going.

Setup/Wheels/Tires

If you have a tire truing machine like the Razor or Area 3 you already have your own methods.

I work on the front first. I like to block up the front axle to remove the excess vertical free-play. This helps a lot towards minimizing the front roll effect.

I use styrene or aluminum tubing in almost any shape or size to get the job done. In this case I am using aluminum K&S brand #103 - 5/32 round tube. I mount them to where they lift the axle all the way up until it is just clearing the tops of the chassis axle mounts. Remember this is for MY flat wood track. Uneven track surfaces means you might leave this alone to allow the axle to float.

With the tires removed, check the wheels for flash molding. NINCO is sort of known for this and it causes plenty of wheel hop.

You can trim this away with a sharp blade, or just sand the wheel like you would tires. No sense in trying to sand and true the tires if you have an uneven baseline.

Once the wheels are cleaned up, time to sand the rear tires. You can use sandpaper taped to your track as shown or in a homemade sanding station. You are really sanding what will be the front tires.

Sand these rear tires and then move them to the front.

Sand them until you do not see tread pattern and then move them to the front. Check the ride height to see if you have them just touching the track. This is how I like them, but you can set them up for what works on your track. Different track brands/surfaces/personal preferences will dictate how far you go.

Once this is completed, time to move on to the rear. Repeat the above step on sanding and you will be ready to go.

The rear tires can be replaced with a wide variety of brands. However, the NINCO stock rubber is very good when sanded and clean. Tire brand/blend is just a personal choice you make depending on track surface/conditions.

Chassis

Now for a little chassis work. This is not needed in some cases, but I have found this to help in reducing chatter (noise) and allowing an increase in body to chassis float. I strip down the entire chassis as I find it easier to work with.

You will want to lightly sand the edges of the chassis. This is how we eliminate any chassis to body rub. It also helps the body to sit cleanly on the chassis with no pinching. When I say pinching I mean that the body sides have to be spread out a little in order for the chassis to snap in place.

You can accomplish this with any method you prefer. Since I am lazy and enjoy using my power tools when I can, I use a simple sanding barrel attachment on my Dremel and carefully go around the chassis.

Chassis just clears the body on all sides

I remove any excess flash molding caused by the sanding and test fit the chassis. I like mine to just drop in place with no contact with the body. Do NOT over do it. Especially on the sides as this allows you room to add lead.

Motor Swap

I suppose I am sort of old school in this area, but I like these models to operate in a more realistic style. The old NC-1 was likely the best motor ever made for these models, but now they are getting harder and harder to find. Luckily, "grass roots" enthusiasts take over in many cases where the manufacturer drops the ball and such is the case here.

MT Racing released a new motor a few months ago and it is a great option. It still has a little more power than an original NC-1, but it still tames these cars down to a fun level.

Your best option is to buy the adaptors for this style of motor. Here at BRS Hobbies you get the set you need for $4.95.

When I do not have these or forget to order them (like me) you can just use some hot glue on each side of the motor.

Motor swap is made easier by the quick disconnects.

No, it does not look very good but it gets the job done. You can enjoy the model for quite awhile until you get the correct adaptors. The hot glue is easily peeled away, so do not worry about that.

Gearing

I keep all the gearing stock. I do however use this time for some break-in. NINCO gears can use it because they can be loud at times. Luckily you have a brass pinion mated to an actetal/nylon plastic crown. As the model runs the crown gear will actually "work" into the brass pinion.

First, lubricate the rear bushings and each end of the motor. Please do not over do this. You only need a very light drop of your favorite oil/grease.

I use automotive rubbing compound as a break-in paste. It is thick and holds onto the gears quite well. I use a toothpick and lightly coat the gears and turn the wheels by hand to work it in.

Then off to my break-in rig for some extended running. You do not need a fancy place to make a rig if you don't have one already.

Use a leftover section of track and place a tire over the rails. Place the car on the track over the tire with braids touching the front and the rear wheels in the air. The tire absorbs vibration as well as suspending the rear wheels. Place a 9 volt battery upside down on the rails. Make sure the wheels are turning in the forward direction, if not, flip the battery around. I let the battery just run down until it dies, this takes awhile but you will hear (or rather you won't) the end results.

Once completed, clean any excess paste away and lightly lubricate the gears.

End Results

When all this is completed I have one great running classic slot car. With a sensible motor installed, the action is much smoother in almost every aspect. On my home track it fits right in with my current line up of cars. I am very happy with this little Porsche and look forward to racing my friends soon.

Final Thoughts

You will have to determine if this series of models are worth the investment. For myself and many other veteran enthusiasts it is too late. Once you get a taste of classic racing, it seems to take hold no matter how hard NINCO seems to try and change them. The good thing is they are easily tuned to any style you prefer.

As for me, this is the last one. No more. I am done :)

- Harry

As always feel free to contact me about this article or just the hobby in general at harry@homeracingworld.com.

Better yet, drop into our Message Forum and share your thoughts with other enthusiasts!

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