Thursday August 13, 2009

Building Ozark Speedway

Part 2

Ok, time for some lumber!

We have here 2 sheets of 1/2 inch MDF. Time to start testing our lane spacing.

I think 1/2 inch MDF is the best thickness. It is easily bent and twisted for curves and banking and not as heavy as 3/4.

We have built quite a few tracks with this thickness and all of them are still going strong.

It better be right. Because its time to fire up the router.

We are going with 4 inch lane spacing. We are making this spacing slightly wider to better accommodate the H&R series 1/24th scale cars.

We will STILL HAVE CONTACT but this will cut down on needless des-slotting due to width on the open wheel cars.

Ok, this turn is routed! Yes, this lane spacing will work just fine.

What would life be without a little comedy?

Ever have one of those days when everything seems to be going against you? Yeah, sure you have!

Well, I broke the radius gauge after I did the first corners! Well now what? Simple, find a scrap section of material and make a new one!

Done!

It is not pretty, but it worked.

Time for the straights. There are different ways to do this of course, but using a board as a guide is the way I like doing it.

Many people use a circular saw for straights, but mine went out on me. No problem, I like using the router anyway.

I left 1 foot on the ends un-routed. I do this because I will route the transition between the 2 sheets when I have them in place on our table.

I use the same board guide method. I place the router on each end to set the board just right then screw it down.

When we are done we will have a perfectly matched slot.

For the small section we are going to kick up some dust. Have your shop vac on hand!

One thing you need to know about routing a track: Mistakes are nothing to worry about.

Above you can see where I wobbled my straight. I simply filled it with standard BONDO body filler.

Once it cured you can simply route right through it. See? No worries.

Part 3 >